"We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars" Oscar Wilde
The Smock Alley/Cow's Lane area of Dublin is worth hunting out; it feels authentic and thriving, and – very importantly – has some very fine cafes to hole up in (such as The Queen of Tarts and The Bakery). And now it has its very own boutique bookshop, too: The Gutter Bookshop (www.gutterbookshop.com) is light, laidback and well-stocked – all a bookshop should be, in fact. For an added bonus, the Cow's Lane market brings young Irish designers to the street every Saturday (10am-5pm); look out for John Shevlin's beautifully made hats.
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